So I thought I should write a blogedy blog about the trek The Nadj and I did to Annapurna Base Camp (or ABC as they say)... I have put some photos up on flickr... but I think here I will try to write a bit about each day with some classy photos of the Nadj and I.
Map's first - Click to enlarge
Map 1 - Kathmandu in relation to Pokhara
Map 2 - Our route to ABC is marked in red. Places we stopped over night are marked with green dots. We started at Nayapul and ended in Dhampus Pedi.
Day one: Nayapul (1025m) to Ghandruk (1940m)
Setting out... it was flat (that didn't last long)! Madhu our guide always carried an umbrella to protect her from the sun... made it feel like we were just going for a stroll in the park rather than up a mountain...
Mt Machhapuchhre (fish tale) is barely visible in the far distance. During the trek we got right up close to it.Beautiful waterfall
School children run up the steps to get home from school. The trekking route is pretty well surfaced with steps etc for a lot of the route. In other, less touristy parts of Nepal children have significantly harder, rougher paths to walk on to get to school.Landslide has washed away the bridge... this temporary bridge was really not much more than a couple of logs. Our porter Sunita leads the way... The Nadj follows...
Day two: Ghandruk (1940m) to Chhomrong (2170m)
Setting out bright and very early.
Walking along towards the mountains... it was so incredibly beautifulOur guide and porters (L-R): Madhu, Sunita and Purna. We organised it all with 3 Sisters Trekking Agency who specialise in supporting women to train as porters and guides. In Nepal women are so marginalised and trodden on it seems a great idea... and our people were fandabulous... keeping us going when we were tired, leading the way, and generally being friendlynice!
Donkeys are used to carry provisions for the tea houses on the first part of the trek before it gets too high.At Chhomrong it was time for a cup of tea... in a British mug... of course
Day three: Chhomrong (2170m) to Himalaya (2920m)
My aren't I the tanned one... fear not I put the legs away after their pastiness was mocked ;o)
Lots of steps... both up and down... even tho our altitude increased each day it was VERY up and down... but I suppose overall up...The Nadj heads up the valley towards ABC
I never travel without my Molton Brown products you know... behind me is the bathroom... luxury bucket of course.Our abode at Himalaya
Day four: Himalaya (2920m) to ABC (4130m)
Small caty joins me for breakfast porridge. I looked concerned.
The scenery started getting a lot more craggy, wild and moor-likebut the mountain valleys were beautiful!
Day five: ABC (4130m) to Bamboo (2335m)
Nearing the top... 1 hour to go... The Nadj's boots had been practically killing her, but like all true legends she soldiered on.Made it!
Except oh no the guest house is up a small hill behind the sign... grrrHigh altitude volleyball match as ABC...Aitana and The Nadj enjoy many biscuits courtesy of Tomaz Humar... random Slovenian climber we met at ABC who told us (darling snort snort) many tales of climbing... and tried unsuccessfully to buy us beer... instead we opted for biscuits... and so we got very many...
Day five: ABC (4130m) to Bamboo (2335m)
Early morning at ABC, and we awake to 360 degree views of some of the highest mountains in the world... Annapurna 1 (8091m), Annapurna 3 (7555m), Annapurna South (7219m) etc. etc.
Day six: Bamboo (2335m) to Jhinu (1740m)
This day is known as the day we conquered the steps of death, doom, despair and despondance. A long steep down and up which we did in reverse on day 3... however it seemed somewhat worse going back...
A fraction of the millions of steps we must have trudged up... and down... and down is pretty hard going on your knees and legs when you just keep on going and going and going steep down!
Some did the steps carrying huge bags and wearing flip flops - who says you need goretex walking boots? Many of the larger trekking groups loaded the porters up like this... obviously these guys are legends and/or desperate for money... but sure to develop chronic back and neck problems I would think...
Day 7: Jhinu (1740m) to Pothana (1900m)
Day 8: Pothana (1900m) to Dhampus Pedi (1130m)
The final day... and this was easy... a short flat stroll and then steeply downhill... and a short drive back to Pokhara in time for lunch!
Day six: Bamboo (2335m) to Jhinu (1740m)
This day is known as the day we conquered the steps of death, doom, despair and despondance. A long steep down and up which we did in reverse on day 3... however it seemed somewhat worse going back...
A fraction of the millions of steps we must have trudged up... and down... and down is pretty hard going on your knees and legs when you just keep on going and going and going steep down!
Some did the steps carrying huge bags and wearing flip flops - who says you need goretex walking boots? Many of the larger trekking groups loaded the porters up like this... obviously these guys are legends and/or desperate for money... but sure to develop chronic back and neck problems I would think...
Some (The Nadj) appeared to do the steps disguised as a hunch back.Some used traditional Nepali baskets to carry their goods up the hill... not a rucksack... more of a head sack as you balance it over your head. Some carry gas cylendars in their baskets... you know something light... The Nadj and I obviously could have carried 10 of these if we had wanted to.
Some (naming no names) developed sweaty arses... this photo is in tribute to Callum who is a leader in these matters. Then it was time to enter the hot springs and wash... which we hadn't done for a while... we were careful to follow the instructions on the sign and not use soup in the springs... shame as we had taken some cupasoup with us...Then we had to wash some clothes... as they stunk tooThe Nadj recarged on a deep fried Snickers. Yum???
Day 7: Jhinu (1740m) to Pothana (1900m)
Nearing the end... a long darstedly bridge had to be crossed
Day 8: Pothana (1900m) to Dhampus Pedi (1130m)
The final day... and this was easy... a short flat stroll and then steeply downhill... and a short drive back to Pokhara in time for lunch!
Early morning Mt Machhupuchre
The final (and very steep) decent down to Dhampus Pedi... the trek's end was right at the bottom of the picture by the river and road.