After 7 years it was time to return to Cambodia.
Poor Ant. Everything was so different and I spent the whole time on repeat saying how it wasn’t like this 7 years ago… and bemoaning how back in the day there weren’t so many Range Rovers/ Porsches/ BMWs/ Rolls Royce's in air conditioned marble garages/ Costa Coffee outlets/ people/ restaurants/ swanky gyms… etc.
Some things are still the same. The same lady selling pineapples and green mango outside work, a few of the same Tuk-Tuk/ motodop drivers outside my old apartment (one even recognised me!)…
But overall a lot of change. Although not so peaceful anymore Phnom Penh still has to be one of the nicest capital cities I can imagine living in. The food scene is incredible. We spent a LOT of time eating and drinking. Heaps of fun shops too, and there is a nice relaxed vibe. Still possible to Tuk-Tuk about town or ride a bike (if you are feeling brave)… and it’s still super cheap.
On reflection though I think that what Yangon lacks in terms of chic cafe culture, amazing food, and amount of sunshine during the monsoon, it more than makes up for in terms of golden pagodas and the interest and excitement of being able to watch the momentous political and economic changes that are unfolding as we poodle through life there.
We spent some time down south… scooting around pepper plantations and dilapidated French colonial architecture on a moped, hiking up a big hill, and a day on a tropical island. For now perfectly un-commercial. No nasty concrete resorts… no deforestation… just some beach shacks selling fresh sea food, some hammocks for lazing, plenty of friendly dogs (I tested this when I stood on one getting out of a hammock!) and a masseuse… you can’t go wrong with a massage overlooking the ocean.
The best bit was the sunshine. After 2 weeks of endless monsoon rain and dark clouds it was so nice to see blue again. Phnom Penh’s climate is definitely better than Yangon’s.
Evening cocktails watching the sunset in a very fine seaside restaurant. We feasted on fresh crab cooked with local green pepper corns and pancakes. Crepes/ pancakes being a big theme of the trip. I think one day we managed to eat a pancake for every meal. The French food legacy combined with amazing Asian flavours does result in very fine food!
Munson-Whites… do you recognise the Right to Bare Arms?!
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